My 52 Week Project

Skincare Products – Serums

Serums are generally light, ingredient dense products, with very few additives. They penetrate skin deeply, and as such, they should be applied early on in the skincare routine, making sure they don’t have to penetrate through much for full absorption. Given the high concentration of ingredients, you really don’t want to be layering serums – try to find one that will give you the results that you’re looking for. Additionally, by applying moisturizers/face oils/sunscreen after your serums, you help lock in those ingredients and promote the results that you’re looking for.

You should really pick your serum based on your skincare needs. For daytime, it’s best to look for protection from harmful properties of the day, whereas night serums are generally focused on repairing skin while you sleep. Some of the common serum ingredients include:

Moisturizing serums – when you’re looking to plump your skin, and supplement your daily moisturizing routine:

Hyaluronic Acid
Glycerin

Antioxidant serums – these help protect your skin against free-radicals, and also help provide anti-aging benefits. These are beneficial for all skin types and ages.

Vitamin C
Retinol
Vitamin E
Peptides
Reveratrol
Niacinamide
Melatonin

Exfoliants to help reduce dullness and discolouration:

AHAs
BHAs

Skincare Products – Face Masks

Face masks are a great way to blast your skin with beneficial ingredients, but the benefits vary greatly based on the type of mask your choose.

Types of Face Masks:

Charcoal/Clay Masks: Great for large or clogged pores, these masks absorb oil and help dislodge grime from your pores, while giving skin a deep clean. However, because these masks can be drying, you want to try to find one with emollient and soothing ingredients. Many are promoted to support with acne. In this case, look for ingredients such as salicylic acid or glycolic acid.
Hydrating Masks: Often formulated as overnight masks or sheet masks, these help lock in moisture and reduce the signs of aging. It’s often recommended that they stay on longer, giving them lots of time to work. Some of the best hydrating masks include hyaluronic acid.
Brightening Masks: These are intended to reduce uneven skintone and increase radiance. They’re generally jam-packed full of antioxidants, such as Vitamin C, Kojic acid, licorice root and azelaic acid.
Acne Masks: To help fight acne, look for ingredients such as

Some tips for using face masks:

Always cleanse your face first – this will help with the effective absorption of the key ingredients
If it’s a rinse-off mask, apply it after cleansing, but before any other products. However, overnight masks should be applied as the last step in your routine
As always, try to avoid fragrances, alcohols, parabens, dyes and essential oils
More isn’t better. Your skin will only be able to absorb so much product, you’re just wasting it if you put on much more than a thin layer

Skincare Products – Exfoliators

Exfoliators help remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, and helps to ensure that skin stays radiant and pores don’t get clogged. When we’re younger, our skin naturally sloughs skin, but this process slows down as we age. Exfoliated skin also absorbs skincare products better, ensuring that you’re getting the most bang for your buck.

There are two types of exfoliants – chemical and physical. Chemical exfoliants generally use acids or enzymes to dissolve the bonds that keep the dead skin attached to your skin, whereas physical exfoliants use small particles to mechanically slough the skin off.

You want to be careful when using an exfoliator. Chemicals that are too strong can irritate skin, especially sensitive skin types, and rough particles can tear at skin, instead of gently removing dead cells. In a perfect world, you would use both, but some types of skin just can’t handle this.

It’s really important to chose an exfoliant that is right for your skin type:

Normal skin can really use whichever formulations. Mechanical and chemical can both be used with great results.
Oily skin will do best with an oil-based exfoliant, and can generally tolerate the strongest formulations like salicylic acid.
Dry skin should look for a water-based chemical formulation. Glycolic and lactic acid are both great choices, as they both moisturize as they exfoliate. Try to stay away from salicylic acid, as this can dry skin out.
Sensitive skin does best with lactic acid which is fairly gentle on the skin. Physical exfoliants should be avoided, as they can irritate skin.

Extra tips:

Be sure to ease into exfoliation, using exfoliators once or twice a week until your skin gets used to it
Try using your exfoliator while you’re in the slower, as the steam can help open pores and loosen any gunk or grime
Chemical exfoliants only really work when they’re left on for a longer period, so using them in a face-wash won’t really do a lot.
If going with a physical exfoliant, try a bit on the back of your hand first. If it feels at all scratchy, give it a pass.
Always moisturize after exfoliating! Exfoliation removes hydrating properties from your skin, and it’s important to replace it

Skincare Products – Toner

Toner, which should be used after your cleanser and before your other products, helps remove any remaining dirt or oil from your skin, and helps shrink your pores. Given this, it’s especially useful for acne prone skin. It also helps to restore your skin’s pH balance, meaning it will better absorb your next products.

You want to do your best to use it within one minute of cleansing. This will help your skin some of hydration from the cleansing.

While you want to avoid toners with alcohol (it’s drying, and can cause the accumulation of pigmentation), the ingredients to look out for vary depending on your skin type. For oily skin AHAs are a good bet, because they exfoliate without causing flaking. BHAs are also good, but can dry the skin For normal/combination skin find antioxidants that align with your skin concerns. Vitamin C, coenzyme 10 and glycerin are good places to start. For dry skin look for hydrating ingredients like rosewater or vitamin E

Skincare Products – Cleansers

Why it’s important

Cleansing is important as it helps to remove oil, sweat, dirt (and other remains of pollution), and dead skin cells from your face. They also help to unclog pores and exfoliate the skin, ideally without stripping the top layer. If you’re not face-washing, you might actually be hindering the absorption of your other skincare products.

How to use it

You should be cleansing your face twice a day – once in the morning and once at night. This ensures that the makeup and grime from your day are removed before bed, and the excess sweat and sebum developed overnight are removed before you apply any other products.

What to look for

There are a few cleanser formulations out there:

Cleansing Lotions/Milks/Creams: Great for sensitive skin, these formulations are generally hydrating and gentle, and don’t need to be washed off (generally wiping them off with a warm, wet cloth is fine). The drier your skin, the thicker of a formulation you’d want to consider. They dissolve the dirt, oil and makeup from your face, and are generally a great “first pass”, but may leave a residue. This is why they’re generally the first step in a “double cleansing” routine.
Micellar Water: Also rinseless, these are great formulations to use in the morning, but are limited in how effective they are against excess sebum and thick makeup.
Face Washes: These are generally foaming cleansers, which go deeper into the pores for a deeper clean. However, these should be used after the makeup and grime have already been removed.

There are also some other tips and tricks based on your skin type:

If you have dry skin, you want to avoid a high alcohol content, as this can dry you out even more. Cream formulations are also better for dryer skin types as foaming washes can be drying, however, you should still reach for a foaming wash at least once a week.
Oily skin will do well with foaming formulations, as they’re better at getting into the pores and removing and build-up
For after hard work-outs, look for a formulation focused on clearing out your pores (as that where the sweat can settle)
If using a milk/cream cleanser, apply it to a DRY face. This dilutes the product, and just makes it less effective overall.
Look for something that’s both oil-free (or noncomedogenic) and hydrating. On the hydrating side, some good ingredients to look for are ceramides and hyaluronic acid. On the cleansing side, you want to chose different ingredients based on your skin type. For acne-prone skin, look for exfoliating ingredients, but sensitive skinned individuals should look for calming agents.
Try to limit your face washing to twice a day (adding an extra time if you’ve had a heavy work-out). Too much washing can over-dry your skin

Skincare Ingredients – Brightening

Many individuals suffer with dark spots and hyper-pigmentation, which leads to skin tine which appears duller and uneven. This is caused by an accumulation of melanin in your skin; skin brightening agents work to block the enzyme which is generally responsible for the overproduction of melanin.

Hydroquinone: This is a “skin lightener”, which helps with spots due to hyperpigmentation, sun, age, or acne scarring. It works by helping to break up areas of excess pigmentation. However, it was recently found to be carcinogenic by the FDA, so it’s one to keep away from.
- Interestingly, Licorice extracts work in a very similar way, but doesn’t have the carcinogenic properties.
Arbutin: Arbutin blocks the enzyme tyrosinase, the enzyme that helps create sun spots. It’s also more gentle than some other skin brightening agents on the market, and is considered to be pregnancy friendly. You’ll generally see two types on the market; alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin. Stay away from beta-arbutin – it’s less stable and therefore, less effective than alpha-arbutin
Kojic Acid: While generally paired with other lightening or exfoliating ingredients, this ingredient also blocks tyrosinase, but also has antioxidant properties. Most experts recommend starting once or twice a week, and working your way up, as it can be drying and irritating, especially for those with sensitive skin

Skincare Ingredients – Surfactants

These ingredients are generally found in cleansers, attracting water and oil off the skin. Some pull too much off the skin, leaving skin feeling dry, but most are appropriate for all skin types.

Decyl Glucoside: Given that it has a large molecule structure, this surfactant absorbs less into the skin than others, allowing it to rinse off easier. It’s also biodegradable, and as such, can be found in a lot of “green” products.

Skincare Ingredients – UV Protection

There are generally two types of ingredients that are usually found in sunscreen that protect against UV rays: physical (or mineral) ingredients and chemical ingredients. While physical ingredients block, reflect and/or scatter the sun’s rays, chemical ingredients absorb them and transform them into heat.

Common Physical Ingredients:

Titanium dioxide: Great for sensitive skin, it protects against both UVA and UVB rays (but not long UVA1 rays), it’s generally recognized as safe and effective by the FDA. While it can be used for children aged 6 months and above, powder and spray versions should be avoided, as there may be some risk of inhalation (the impacts are still being studied). It’s worth noting that some of these sunscreens may leave a white cast on skin (especially darker skin tones), but this varies from brand to brand
Zinc oxide: Often found alongside titanium dioxide, it’s notably not as effective on its own as other ingredients on this list against sunburns. However, studies have shown that even with repeated use there is no evidence of skin absorption. It’s best to use to avoid sun damage to skin (instead of sunburns). There are also inhalation concerns with zinc oxide, so try to use liquid forms where possible.

Common Chemical Ingredients:

Oxybenzone: Found in the majority of sunscreens in the United States, there have been some concerns about this ingredient. Specifically, some studies have found that this ingredient can be damaging to coral reefs (it’s actually banned in Hawaii), and as such, it is generally excluded from “green” products. There is also some evidence that the skin absorbs more of this chemical; while detrimental effects haven’t been proven, there are some linkages to lower birth weights when used by pregnant women. Additionally, many have reported skin irritation associated with oxybenzone.
Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate): Also found to be damaging to coral reefs (and as such, banned in Hawaii), it is especially potent for UVB protection. While no adverse effects have been proven, the chemical has been found in the milk of nursing mothers when they regularly used sunscreen with octinoxate. Additionally, animal studies have shown thyroid and behavioural alterations.
Octisalate (Ethylhexyl Salicylate)/Octocrylene: Considered to be safer than the options above, there’s still some evidence of skin penetration in lab studies.
Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane): Provides full UVA protection but breaks down quickly in sunlight (up to 90% is destroyed within an hour of exposure). It can be stabilized with the addition of certain UVB blockers such as octocrylene. While there is a high rate of skin sensitivity associated with avobenzone, it has been shown to have very limited penetration of the skin, and there’s no evidence of hormone disruption
Mexoryl SX and X: Developed by L’Oreal, these ingredients were only approved by the FDA in 2006Also used to block UVA rays, it’s often found with avobenzone, as together these ingredients are more stable. It’s water resistant, very stable in the sun, and generally not irritating to the skin. It also has been shown to have minimal skin penetration, and no found effects on hormones.

Skincare Ingredients – Emollients

When your skin is dry and/or cracking, there are open spaces between your skin cells. Emollients (as an ingredient) help fill those gaps, giving you softer and more even skin, while also sealing watering within the skins barrier. It’s great for most skin types, the only exception being overly oily skin, given that most emollients are oil based and can block your pores further.

Ceramides: Ceramides absorb very quickly and help to seal in moisture, and support the skin’s natural moisture barrier. They’re fats that occur naturally on the skin’s surface, and help create that “natural glow”.
Squalane: Squalene is produced naturally by the skin (part of our naturally occurring sebum) , but we produce less of it as we age. Squalane is the more stable version of squalene, and as such, more often added to skincare products. As a moisturizer, it feels very natural on the skin, absorbs easily and doesn’t leave a greasy residue.
Allantoin: Aside from its emollient properties, allantoin is also known for its ability to sooth and heal damaged skin. It also helps to exfoliate by encouraging the top layer of skin to shed from the inside out.
Cocoa butter: Rich in antioxidants, cocoa butter is a great moisturizer, and can help with inflammation. You can generally find it fairly easily, and you can find it both in refined and unrefined versions (the big difference being that unrefined has a very strong chocolate smell). Also note that it can clog pores, so it’s not great for acne-prone skin
Colloidal Oatmeal: Created by grinding up oatmeal and placing it in liquid, colloidal oatmeal helps protect and sooth skin from irritation. Providing a barrier for the skin, it helps to keep pollutants off the skin, and moisture in. These properties make it ideal for people suffering mild to medium eczema, as it also has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. For optimal effectiveness, dermatologists recommend a thick cream or adding it to baths to reduce dryness.
Cyclopentasiloxane: Yes, it’s a silicone (a bad word in skincare these days), but it’s extremely common, and does a good job of making skin look and feel great. It’s lightweight, gives skin a silky texture, and can help to dissolve other impurities. While there are concerns about silicones disrupting hormones, studies haven’t shown any absorption with this ingredient, as it evaporates before it hits the blood stream.
Grapeseed Oil: This lightweight oil is filled with antioxidants, and doesn’t clog pores, making it great for people prone to acne. It can also help to fade both scars and dark spots, and even out skin tone.
Jojoba Oil: Not actually and oil, jojoba oil (pronounced ho-ho-ba), is technically a “wax ester”. It mimics sebum (the naturally occurring oil on your skin), but also with antioxidants (including vitamin E), which means it both promoted skin hydration, and has anti-aging properties.

Skincare Ingredients – Antioxidants

Our bodies purposefully create free-radicals to help protect us from viruses and bacteria. Specifically, these are highly unstable and and reactive molecules with at least one missing electron. In order to stabilize, they attack stable molecules (trying to steal their electrons), which is great when they’re attacking things we don’t want. But this stealing of electrons eventually hits healthy cells, and when we have an overabundance of free-radicals, it can create a situation where our body can’t detoxify them fast enough (oxidative stress).

The formation of free-radicals can be triggered by the normal bad stuff: pollution, sun exposure, cigarette smoke, etc. However, by including antioxidants in your skincare, it can help put things back in balance again, and even counteract some of the damage caused by oxidative stress (and reduce the signs of aging). They do this by essentially “donating” the extra electron to the free-radicals, thereby stabilizing

Retinol (Vitamin A): Retinol boosts the collagen in your skin and helps to increase cell turnover, causing a wide variety of benefits, including clearing up acne, preventing pores from clogging, lightens discolouration, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin texture and clarity, and increases the thickness and elasticity of skin. However, it can cause dryness and increase sun sensitivity (especially in the first few weeks), so be sure to pair it with a good moisturizer and sunscreen. It’s worth noting that many people experience “purging” in the first few weeks of using a retinol product; this causes extra acne, dryness and skin flaking. Look out for retinol in its many forms, including Retin-A, tretinoin acid and retinaldehyde.
- Is you skin too sensitive for retinol? Consider bakuchiol as an alternative. Studies have shown that it’s about as effective as retinol in wrinkle/hyper-pigmentation reduction, but it also helps moisturize the skin, and hasn’t been shown to have the same drying effects as retinol. Additionally, it doesn’t make your skin vulnerable to sun the way retinol does. However, it’s still a fairly new product, so there’s still a lot to learn about its efficacy and safety (especially for pregnant/nursing moms)
Vitamin C: Vitamin C can support in the production of collagen and can help reduce discolouration, but it’s most well known for brightening the skin. It comes in many forms, so look out for L-ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid on the label. It works well with Vitamin E and ferulic acid, so look for products with all three on the ingredient list.
Vitamin B3: Listed as niacinamide on most labels, it’s an anti-inflammatory making it great for those with acne or rosacea. However, anyone can see benefits from its usage, which can include skin brightening, reduction in wrinkles, and increased skin elasticity. It also boosts the effectiveness of other anti-oxidants.
Vitamin E: Often listed as tocopherol in the ingredient list, it’s one of the more well-researched anti-oxidants. It does a great job in protecting skin against free-radicals, and as such, it’s commonly found in sunscreens. It’s been proven to be marginally more effective in it’s natural form (versus synthetic). While it does wonders against UVA rays, it is rapidly broken down by UVB rays. In contrast, Vitamin C helps protect against damage from UVB, so if investing in an anti-oxidant serum, try to find one with both. It’s worth noting that it can worsen acne, so it might not be the best for those with acne prone skin.
Ferulic Acid: Found in the cell walls of some plants, ferulic acid is more well known for its ability to amplify the effects of other anti-oxidants, than it is for its own anti-oxidant properties. Unlike some others on this list, ferulic acid doesn’t undo skin damage, but combined with vitamins C and E, it provides almost universal protection from free-radicals in the environment. It also acts as a stabilizing agent for Vitamin C, making it more effective for a longer time period. Notably, it should not be combined AHAs and BHAs, which change the pH of the skin reduce the effectiveness of Ferulic acid
Green Tea: Containing polyphenols, which fight against free radicals, green tea is thought to reduce sagging and wrinkles. There is also some research that has shown that it can protect against skin cancer, and reduce the impact of sun damage. It also has a calming effect, which works well against redness. Look for it in moisturizers as camellia sinensis leaf extract
Resveratrol: Another polyphenic antioxidant, it’s derived from fruits such as grapes, blueberries and cranberries. While it protects against environmental damage, it is also known to support with skin brightening, and helps revive tired looking skin.
Coenzyme Q10: Naturally produced by our bodies, we produce less of this antioxidant as we age. Some studies have shown that it can help reduce “crows-feet” around the eyes
Lycopene: Responsible for making fruits and vegetables their reddish hue, this ingredient is most often derived from tomatoes. It can support in the boosting in the health of your collagen supply, and can calm the body’s inflammatory process (reducing redness and irritation). However, you can get a lot of the benefits from just increasing the lycopene in your diet, so chow down on those tomatoes!
Caffeine: As an ingredient in skincare, it often comes with promises to reduce cellulite and/or puffy eyes, but research has shown mixed results. It can also be irritating for some skin types.
Aloe Vera: Known for soothing burns due to its anti-microbial properties, it also is packed with antioxidants (including vitamin C and vitamin E). Beware that 100% aloe products can dry out your skin, so be sure to layer a moisturizing product on top
Alpha-Lipoic Acid: A powerful antioxidant, it exists in your body naturally, fighting free-radicals. Small studies have shown decreases in fine lines and wrinkles, as well as scarring. However, it degrades quickly in sunlight, so it’s probably best to use this one at night.
Curcumin: Derived from turmeric, this ingredient has been shown to reduce inflammation, speeds wound healing, and decreases oiliness. It has also been shown to help with under-eye darkness. However, it should be noted that this ingredient can dye skin a yellow tint, so be sure to try before you buy.
Phytic Acid: This antioxidant works by eating up calcium, which can clog up pores leading to blackheads. As such phytic acid can support with reducing pore size and cleaning out blackheads. It’s also an AHA (though a gentle one), so it has added exfoliation properties.
Goji Berries: Helping to even skin tone by promoting collagen and elastin production, goji berries are full of antioxidants (including vitamin C), and because they’re filled with fatty acid, they’re great hydrators. You can ingest them, but there are also plenty of products which include them on the ingredient list.