AHAs are exfoliating ingredients, and are thought to help with fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and may help to shrink pores. They break up the “glue” that holds dead skin together, creating a brighter look. It should be noted that these ingredients can increase skin’s sensitivity, especially to sun (another reason to use sunscreen, everyday!) It’s best to start with a lower percentage (think 10-15%) and work your way up.
- Glycolic Acid: Derived from sugarcane, this is a powerful exfoliant that can help remove dead skin cells, and reduce skin discolouration. It has the smallest molecule size among the acids, so it penetrates skin extremely well, meaning it’s thought to be the most effective, but also the most likely to cause skin irritations. Start with a low percentage, and work your way up.
- Lactic Acid: Made from milk, this is a much better pick for those with sensitive skin. It helps dissolve the top layer of dead skin cells, allowing them to slough off more effectively. It also moisturizes by encouraging your skin to make ceramides, so it’s great if you’re looking for more of an “all-in-one” solution
- Malic Acid: Derived from apples, this is also a great choice for sensitive skin. It’s molecules are larger than glycoloic or lactic acid, meaning it doesn’t penetrate as deeply, making it less effective, but also less irritating than other products. It also acts as a humectant, pulling and trapping moisture in the skin. Unlike other AHAs, it also keeps the skin’s pH balanced, helping to protect your skin from acne and dryness. It’s most often used in conjunction with other AHAs.
- Mandelic Acid: With molecules even larger than malic acid, this product doesn’t lead to great results, but is unlikely to irritate your skin. It can help lower the risk of irritation when used with some of the stronger AHAs, and can help suppress the production of excess pigment in the skin.
- Tartaric Acid: Generally used in conjunction with glycolic or lactic acid, this AHA helps regulate pH levels, and as such, reduces possible skin irritation.
- Citric Acid: Found primarily in lemons and limes, this AHA works similarly to tartaric acid in maintaining the pH level. It also has preservative properties, which can help keep your skincare ingredients fresh throughout the day. Finally, it also helps remove environmental impurities from the skin.
- Apple Cider Vinegar: Containing acetic and malic acid, it helps with exfoliation, circulation and pH levels. It also has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, supporting acne control. However, it is extremely strong, and can cause chemical burns, so if you’re creating a home remedy, you want to dilute it to one part vinegar, 4 parts water.
