I know I’m ahead of schedule, but I was just too excited. Time to start looking more into the primary ingredients in the skincare world. First and foremost, I wanted to start with ingredients focused on moisturizing your skin, but I’m now updating this post because as I went through things, I realized there are a lot of different categories to get into. I’ll likely start a bunch of different posts and add to them as I learn about new ingredients.
First up, humectants. These substances take water vapour from surrounding areas and help keep the skin hydrated. What you want is a humectant that takes water out of the air, not out of deeper layers of the skin.
- Hyaluronic Acid: despite the “acid” name, this is a key moisturizing ingredient in many products out there. It’s already part of the skin’s connective tissues, but we have less of it in our bodies as we age. As a humectant, it helps moisture bind to the skin, by attracting and retaining water (it can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water), and it is often used in conjunction with Vitamin C products. Sodium hyaluronate (the salt form), is similar but has smaller molecules (aiding in absorption).
- Glycerin (also appearing on labels as glycerol or glycerine): Also a humectant, but generally used in conjunction with other hydrating ingredients, such as essential oils, because it helps enhance their hydrating properties. Also suitable for acne-prone skin, glycerin has also been proven to encourage the skin to shed dead cells, creating smoother looking skin. Because it pulls moisture from the atmosphere into your skin, it’s best to use immediately post-shower, when there’s still lots of humidity in the air. It goes on silky and works well under makeup.
- Beta Glucan: This humectant is derived from yeast, bacteria, fungi, seaweed, and grains, but it’s not naturally found in humans. It works by stimulating microphages (part of the immune system), which attack pathogens that enter your system. So if you have cracked or damaged skin (through dryness, eczema, etc), it can support in restoring the skin’s barrier. It’s also extremely moisturizing, with most experts agreeing that it’s at least as moisturizing as Hyaluronic acid. Beta glucan also has antioxidant properties, which support in anti-aging, restoring plumpness and repairing skin. Because it helps with both irritation and moisturizing (while reducing fine lines and wrinkles) it’s a top pick for those with sensitive/easily irritated skin.
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